Archive for the 'Patterns' Category

A touch of France

I’ve knit myself a couple of berets recently. They took about a day each, and I love, love, love them. You may remember that I had a hat disaster which ended with me deciding to knit a lace beret? Here they are:

Sorbonne Hats

I call the pattern “Sorbonne”, because my husband told me I look like a student of French literature at the Sorbonne when I put it on.

I used a little over one 50 gram ball of Rauma Vamsegarn for each of them, and I’ve threaded some hat elastic through the ribbing on both to get that snug fit around the forehead.

They’re pretty fun both to knit and to wear, though. Especially if you pretend to be a student of French literature at the Sorbonne.

Edit: I have removed the pattern, as there are clearly issues with how I charted the pattern.

A new obsession?

I have seen spinning mentioned on knitting blogs since I started reading them almost two years ago, but I’ve always thought it looked a bit silly, kind of like making your pasta from scratch. However, the spinning pictures on the {by elin} blog have finally pushed me over the edge. I have ordered a learn-to-spin kit, but it will be a little while before I get it. In the meantime, I have been experimenting with a crude homemade spindle and some needle felting fibre I found at a hobby store. The fibre is not ideal for spinning, as it is short and very curly, so it’s almost impossible to draft it well. However, I was determined to see if my first two handspun lengths of yarn (about 10 grams each) could actually be used in a project. It’s a good thing I’m stubborn, because this was just about the most unpleasant knitting experience I’ve ever had.

My first handspun/felted coin purse

 

Project: Felted coin purse, my own pattern.

Yarn: Two strands of Sparkjøp Safirgarn in brown and my own handspun “yarn” in colours red, sunflower yellow and grass green.

Needles: Knitpicks Options 7 mm. I could have used a larger needle, which would probably have eased the felting process a little.

The handspun was quite a lot thicker than the commercial yarn, so the purse is a little bumpy, but mainly the rose design sticks out a little, which is an effect I kind of like.

Do you have a few yards of lumpy handspun you’d like to use? You, too, can have a felted purse:

You need some handspun (colour B) and some commercial yarn of a different colour (colour A), both should be feltable. Needles of a large size for the yarn’s gauge.

Using A, cast on 42 sts and join to knit in the round. Follow the below diagram* (shows one side of the purse).

eight petal rose chart for felted purse

 

(click the diagram to go to the Flickr photo page, where you can find larger versions).

After completing the diagram, work a three-needle bind off to seal the bottom of the purse. Work a round of single crochet (UK: double crochet) around the open edge to avoid curling.

Lightly secure ends (felting hides a multitude of sins) and felt/full the purse in your washing machine. I had to use 60 degree water and wash it with a load of towels to achieve proper fulling. Remove from the washing machine as soon as the program ends and shape, lay flat to dry.

* I didn’t have enough handspun “yarn” to work the diagonal lice pattern, so I worked only the eight-petal rose design, placing it according to the diagram. This isn’t ideal, because the floats on the back get a little too long and unmanageable.

The good thing about October

It’s woollen socks weather. And just in time for it, here’s my new pair of socks, finally finished:

Pattern: The continental heel from Knitting without Tears and the rosebud toe from Knitting on the Road.

Trekking socks FO

Project: Plain stockinette socks

 

Yarn: Trekking XXL in colourway 146.

Needles: 2 mm (ribbing) and 2.5 mm dpns.

Thoughts: The next time I knit top down socks for myself, I want to make the following changes:

  • Cast on 64 stitches instead of 60. These socks are a little too snug. It’s not a huge problem, but slightly bigger would be better.
  • I want to try the slip stitch heel, which I think looks neater than a plain heel flap with garter border. I’d also like to try a new heel-turning method.
  • I should do less steep gusset decreases. On these socks I decreased on every row, but every second or even every third would be better.

The main reason I’ve not made these improvements in these socks is that they’ve been my portable project, and it’s just easier to work elements I already know when I’m on the go. I’m thinking of putting together a small card with the instructions for all the sock elements I’d like to try and put it in my wallet 😉

I’ve also been working on filling in the gaps in the baby wardrobe. I noticed a couple of days ago that we have no woollen mittens:

I made these mittens to match the blueberry hat that I’ve presented previously. I searched the Ravelry pattern database for mitten patterns in fingering weight, but couldn’t find anything, so I improvised. Just in case anyone else is interested, I threw together the patterns for the hat and the mittens, and you can download them here: One skein baby set. Together, the hat and the mittens took 39 grams, or less than a ball, of Dale Baby Ull.

mittens FO liten

 

one skein baby set lite

Stitch marker crazy

When I started swatching the Flower Basket Shawl, I quickly discovered that I don’t have enough stitch markers. I want to use one to mark the center stitch, one for every repeat of the pattern, and one to remind me which side is the WS (overkill? Probably, but I’m very easily distracted. Not a good trait in a lace knitter!)

So here is the full crop of stitch markers for knitting:

stitch markers 2

I especially like the wooden bead ones, as they are very light and pretty. But after I had made them all, I realised there wasn’t room for all of them in my old stitch marker case. So I crocheted a quick little notions & trinkets bag.

notions case

I imagine that any crocheter would be able to make a bag like this without a pattern, but I wrote it up just in case. I think it would be perfect for a small child’s trinkets or marbles. It would be great as the gift bag for a stitch marker swap, and the beads could be selected to match the gifted stitch markers. It could be made in feltable wool and handfelted to make it tighter. There are thousands of possibilities!

Notions & trinkets bag

Materials: 

  • Small amount of thin cotton (or feltable woollen!) yarn. I used Schachenmayr Nomotta Catania
  • Hook: Whatever creates a strong, non-holey fabric. I used 3 mm. (If you want to felt the bag, you should use a slightly larger hook than the ballband calls for).  
  • A piece of string or ribbon. I used a waxed string for making necklaces.
  • One large and two smaller beads.

Gauge:

Varies with the yarn. For a cotton yarn, you should have a tight gauge to avoid holes in the bag. If you want to felt it, you should have a looser gauge (any holes or sloppiness should disappear with the felting).

Notes:

It’s easy to change the size of the bag. Make it wider by continuing to increase after round 8 (increase six stitches evenly on every round). Make it taller by adding plain rounds before round 16. If you want to felt your bag, you should make it bigger, as felting will shrink it.

Also, if you’re planning on felting, make round 16 plain and make holes for the string by pushing a sharp needle through the fabric after felting.

Directions:

BOTTOM

Round 1: Make a magic adjustable loop. Make 6 sc into loop and tighten.

Round 2: Attach marker to first stitch, moving the marker every round. 2 sc in every sc (12 sts)

Round 3: *Sc, 2 sc in next sc* . Repeat between * until end (18 sts)

Round 4: *Sc in 2 next sts, 2 sc in next st*. Repeat between * until end (24 sts)

Round 5: *Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st*. Repeat between * until end (30 sts)

Round 6: *Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st*. Repeat between * until end (36 sts)

Round 7: *Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st*. Repeat between * until end (42 sts)

Round 8: *Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st*. Repeat between * until end (48 sts)

BODY

NB! Work all sts in BACK LOOP ONLY throughout.

Rounds 9-15: Sc in every sc around.

Round 16: *Sc in next 7 sts, ch 1, skip next st*. Repeat between * until end.

Round 17: Sc in every sc, sc in back loop of every ch. Create an even edge by sl st into last three stitches. Break yarn. Weave in ends.

Finishing: Cut length of string or ribbon. Weave through the ch holes. Gather ends of string and slip larger bead onto both ends of string. Add smaller bead to each end and tie knot. Put stitch markers in, close by holding string ends and pushing on larger bead.

Enjoy!

notions case closed

 

Twelfth crochet project: Party clutch

Party clutch open

I’m going to a wedding. I have a standard dress that I always wear; dark brown, shiny silk with black woollen accents. It’s a peculiar colour combination, and it’s a bitch to accessorize. But this year I’ve learnt to crochet! Suddenly, the world of matching accessories is at my feet. My requirements for a party clutch are simple:

  • Should match dress.
  • Should hold cell phone and credit card
  • Should be small enough to hold comfortably in one hand, even while dancing.
  • Shouldn’t scream “clumsily handmade after prolonged and increasingly frustrating accessory shopping nightmare”

Party clutch closed

Pattern notes:
This clutch is made at a deliberately tight gauge. This is partly an attempt to restrain the notoriously stretchy tendencies of the viscose, and partly to avoid having to line the bag. With use, the bag will likely stretch quite a bit. I will revisit my lining decision after seeing how the bag holds up.
First sc counts as a stitch.

Materials:

  • Garnstudio “Cotton Viscose” (54 % mercerized cotton, 46 % viscose, 50 gr = 110 m), 1 ball in colour # 023
  • Crochet hook size 2.5 mm
  • Yarn needle
  • Two 35 cm lengths of 3 mm ribbon in two different, matching colours.

Gauge: 10 cm= 27 sts and 30.5 rows in sc.

Finished dimensions: 16 cm * 6.5 cm (closed) 16 cm * 11 cm (open)

Chain 46.

Row 1: Starting in second chain from hook, sc across.

Row 2: Chain 1, sc across.

Rows 3-20: As row 2.

Row 21: Chain 1, sc in 31 sts. Skip next two sts, chain two, sc until end.

Row 22: Chain 1, sc in every sc, two sc in chain-2 space, sc across.

Row 23: As row 2. Row 24: Chain 1, sc in 12 sts. Skip next two sts, chain two, sc until end. (Chain-2 space should be in the same column as the one on row 21.)

Row 25: Chain 1, sc in every sc, two sc in chain-2 space, sc across.

Row 26: As row 2.

Row 27-50: Repeat rows 21-26 four more times.

Fold work at row 19, right sides together. Sc sides together. Weave in ends. Turn bag right sides out. Thread yarn needle with both ribbons and weave through the chain-2 spaces, leaving a generous tail on both sides. Use tails to tie clutch shut. If the flap does not lie flat, spray with water and leave to dry.

Seventh crochet project: Baby blanket


Sjuende prosjekt detalj
Originally uploaded by ceecrochet.

The baby blanket is finally finished. It was crocheted in Dale Baby Ull in #9013 and needed a little over 5 50 g balls. I chose this colour because it’s bright and nice but gender-neutral. Babies don’t have to be gendered in their first few days…

I wanted it to be warm yet light and airy, as the baby will be born in the late Nordic summer.

It was crocheted after my own “pattern” on a 5mm hook and measures 86 by 67 cm.

How I made it:

Ch 119. Ch 3 to turn.

Row 1: Dc in every stitch. Ch 3 to turn

Row 2: Dc in first four stitches. *Ch 1 and skip stitch. Dc in next stitch* Repeat until four stitches left. Dc in last four stitches. Ch 3 to turn

Row 3: Same as row 2

Row 4: Dc in every stitch.

Row 5: Dc in first four stitches. *Ch 2 and skip two stitches. Dc in next stitch* Repeat until four stitches left. Dc in last four stitches. Ch 3 to turn

Row 6: Same as row 5

Row 7: Dc in every stitch.

I repeated this pattern until the blanket measured about 75-76 centimetres, then added one row of sc and one row of four dc shells around the edge of the blanket.

One important thing I learnt from this project: Every so often, lay out your project on a flat surface to make sure you’re doing it right. I had to frog several times because I’d forgotten where in the pattern I was and switched rows without noticing. And there is one ugly mistake I didn’t notice until I was done with the finishing ;-(


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